Korean models JiHye Park and Sung Hee Kim at New York Fashion Week, Getty Images.
The Asian wave
Thanks to high-tech products and a holistic approach, Asian beauty is miles ahead of the game.
The buzz around Asian beauty is near-deafening these days, with devoted beauty bloggers adopting the Korean ten-step skincare routine, and supermodels Instagramming their sheet mask selfies. But what exactly is Asian beauty, and why is it having such a moment? Trends aside, it may come down to the Asian philosophy on beauty. More than anything, the emphasis is on pampering and prevention, and an obsession with perfect, poreless skin.
“In Asia, it’s not about covering up your skin with makeup to make it look flawless. It’s not about finding a miracle cream that magically reverses signs of ageing,” says Charlotte Cho, author of The Little Book of Skin Care: Beauty Secrets from Seoul, and founder of online Korean beauty store Soko Glam. “Instead, the Asian philosophy is about taking preventative measures to make sure you never get to that point.” Kathleen Hou, senior beauty editor at New York Magazine’s The Cut, says, “Tanned skin isn’t a beauty ideal in Asian culture, and that happens to correspond with dermatological beauty advice that tells us to avoid the sun. All makeup artists agree that you need beautiful skin to do beautiful makeup.”
If the quest for ageless beauty is a race – against time and the limits of technology – it appears that Asia is miles ahead of the competition. Centuries of tradition in Indonesia and Thailand dictate a holistic approach to beauty, using natural herbs and botanicals in combination with luxurious rituals like body scrubs, wraps, and milk baths that can last several hours. Japan has a more targeted sensibility, with multi-step skincare routines that mix high-tech products and old-school techniques such as facial massage. Before 2011, the rest of the world looked to Japan when it came to Asian beauty, with brands such as Shu Uemura and Shiseido gaining a massive international following. However, “Japanese brands are at a different stage,” says Nylon Magazine’s editor-in-chief, Michelle Lee. “They’re amazing but the sparkle of what’s new and cool is really focused on Korea right now.”
In music, food and fashion, K-pop culture has gone global, and the
beauty industry is no exception. Thanks to the explosive US debut of
BB cream in 2011, the spotlight has landed squarely on South Korea,
and its people’s meticulous, innovative approach to beauty. “In the
States, BB cream was the tipping point,” says Lee. “After it became
popular here, people were hungry for the next hot product to come out
of Asia.” Hou agrees. “Curiosity about BB creams and where they came
from sparked interest in the Korean skincare routine,” she says.
“Globalisation also means a huge interest in what people are doing
around the world, whether it be the French or the Japanese.”
The sparkle of what’s new and cool is really focused on Korea right now.
MICHELLE LEE, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF AT NYLON MAGAZINE
Globalisation – via blogging, vlogging and, ultimately, online shopping – is the other contributing factor in Asia’s dominance of the beauty market. “If you wanted to get your hands on a Korean mascara 10 years ago, good luck!” remembers Lee. “You’d have to travel there or find a friend to get it for you. Now, with the ease of internet shopping, you can pretty much get your hands on whatever you want.”
From pig collagen creams to placenta masks, Korea is reinventing the way the world approaches skincare. Korean women reportedly spend seven times more money on beauty products than Americans. “That demand has incentivised Korean beauty companies to invest in research and development to create new, unique products that satisfy beauty-savvy Korean customers,” explains Hou.
“Manufacturers tend to be really responsive to consumer demands in Korea – and, boy, are consumers demanding,” says Cho. “Korean consumers have come to expect safe, affordable and effective products – fast – and Korean cosmetic companies are equipped to move quickly because if they don’t deliver they can’t stay competitive and survive.”
With products variously boasting snail slime, starfish extract, donkey milk and fermentation, it’s hard to know what’s hype and what actually works. Hou and Cho both agree that snail mucin is worth a go. “Supposedly, the slime secreted by snails protects them from cuts, bacteria and UV rays, and contains beneficial beauty ingredients such as elastin, proteins, hyaluronic and glycolic acids,” says Hou. “I’ve tried snail cream before, and found it to be very moisturising and great at calming down redness and sealing in moisture.”
Hou’s prediction for the next big thing is cushion compacts. “They’re the next-gen BB cream, and give you the pores of an eternally baby-faced K-pop starlet. The finish is totally natural, dewy, translucent, hydrating, and contains SPF50. They’re so popular that Lancôme has launched its own Stateside version.” Cho backs fermentation. “Fermented ingredients haven’t been synthetically produced in the lab; fermentation is a traditional Korean practice used for preserving and curing, usually food, and now it’s being used for cosmetic ingredients, as demand for organics is on the rise.”
They’re the next-gen BB cream, and give you the pores of an eternally baby-faced K-pop starlet.
CHARLOTTE CHO ABOUT CUSHION COMPACTS
Fads aside, it appears American women are starting to embrace the Asian ideology of skincare. Cho says, “I think we’re hitting this point where people are getting more health-conscious in the US. We’re increasingly aware about what we’re putting into our bodies, in terms of food, as well as fitness. It would also make sense to be more critical about what we’re putting on them, makeup and skincare products included.” Hou adds, “I don’t think all American woman will adopt a ten-step skincare routine. But they can adopt the mentality of putting extra care and consistency into their skincare routine.”
Lee gets lyrical. “Don’t expect beautiful flowers if you don’t water them. You have to put a little work into getting a beautiful result.” That said, her best beauty advice echoes that of dermatologists everywhere. “The biggest thing you can do for your skin as you age, really, is sunscreen.” Not a trail of slime anywhere.