Christian Dior, Gucci, Rochas and Julien Macdonald, Fall/Winter 2014, All Over Press.
From bare to brash… This season, makeup artists unload their full technical arsenal on our lids and lashes.
Summer is all about makeup-free, effortlessly sun-kissed beauty. But
before we know it, those endless warm days become cool autumn nights
and, suddenly, the distinct beauty elements that have the power to
make every woman wonderfully one-of-a-kind become paramount again. The
contrast is set to be particularly striking this year, as the
spotlight lands on our most expressive of features: the eyes.
Following several seasons of nearly naked ‘I just rolled out of bed
like this’ looks, makeup artists unloaded their full colour and
technical arsenal for the autumn runways, bringing the bold eye back
into fashion. There were stripes of shimmering latex at Christian
Dior, courtesy of Pat McGrath; Val Garland created blocks of all-over
colour at Julien Macdonald; and Tom Pecheux’s glittery lids shone at
So why the sudden turnaround from bare to brash? “The past few seasons have been very sporty, so I think the general feeling was that it was time to inject a little more fun and glamour into the runway”, says Marie Claire’s beauty and health director, Erin Flaherty. “With all the thick knits and trainers we saw at the collections, it’s also a way to ‘dress up’ more dressed down fashion”.
False lashes were deliberately layered with a heavy hand at Rochas and Gucci. It was a nod to the Swinging Sixties, a wink at London loucheness that also saw a revival of cat eyes at Marc by Marc Jacobs and Chanel. The former was classic bad-girl, with the entire eye rimmed in the blackest liner possible, and Chanel took flashy neon colors and extended them just to the centre of the lid.
Translating this kind of drama to everyday does take a deft touch. The beauty experts all agree that when the emphasis is on a strong eye, the rest of the face should be minimally made up. Consider a nude lip, and leave the skin looking clean and natural.
With such vivid pigments, the key is blending, says Jane Larkworthy, W Magazine’s beauty director. “With a little warmth of the fingers or a tenacious blending brush, you can wear the wildest colours in a very understated way. Use that crazy lime green or bright teal as a thin line just along, or in, the water line. Adding a stroke of brightly coloured mascara to the ends of lashes is another easy way to make a whispered statement”.