ON THE RUNWAY
This season, we match chunky knits with sandals (!) and dream about a space odyssey. These are our catwalk favourites right now.
SOCKS ’N’ SANDALS
Good news! There’s no need to put your sandals in storage once the
autumn chill hits. Instead, take your cue from shows such as Hermès,
Alberta Ferretti, Antipodium and Margaret Howell, and don a pair of
fancy socks with them. A more stylish take on the geeky socks and pool
slides of summer, it’s also the perfect transitional look, worn with a
midi skirt or cropped trousers for maximum effect. Try slouchy ribbed
socks, sparkly lamé or chunky knit.
Fashion rocketed into outer space this season, with the starlit universe and sci-fi adventures providing inspiration of astronomical proportions. Twinkling stars were found at Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, Matthew Williamson, Stella McCartney and Alexander McQueen. Jean-Paul Gaultier went for a fun Brits in Outer Space theme for both collection and show. But the award for best intergalactic big-up goes to Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, and Rodarte for their Star Wars prints. Darth Vader, Yoda, Han Solo et al have never looked so good. The force is with this one.
We’ve got our wardrobe staples and statement jumpers, but now it’s time to take our love of knits head-to-toe, if the usual catwalk trendsetters have their way. Which means matching knit tops and trousers à la Céline and Marc Jacobs, or longer-length skirts, as seen at Calvin Klein. Meanwhile, trust knitwear ace Sonia Rykiel to sumptuously layer a tunic over trousers, then proceed to add a full-length cardigan over the top! The result is cosy yet nonchalant, and above all, comfortable.
Is it a nod to the Baroque era or 1990s throwback? Whatever the case, velvet – plush and oh-so-luxurious – is back with a vengeance. Striking trouser suits in jewel tones stole the show at Emilio Pucci, while Michael van der Ham and Emilio de la Morena played it against delicate organdies and tulle. Elsewhere, Nina Ricci journeyed down the crushed velvet route, and House of Holland went bananas with the Bedazzler, creating fun lipstick and chandelier appliqués to adorn his velvet jackets.
The short, A-line silhouettes, Chelsea boots and pointy flats of the Swinging Sixties reigned supreme at Louis Vuitton and Gucci, and the sleeveless shift dress – a Mod favourite – popped up everywhere, from Dsquared2 and Saint Laurent to Miu Miu and Erdem. Though all leant towards retro, the bold embellishments, leather accents and subtle sequins brought them firmly into the 21st century. A beauty note: avoid cat-eye eyeliner at all costs (too retro overall) and opt for smudged liner instead.