When the hoodie became haute
This is how the comfortable sweatshirt made it from the American sports fields to the Paris runways.
THE STORY BEHIND IT
The story behind the hoodie begins in Europe in the Middle Ages, where tunics with attached hoods were the uniform of monks and the common everyday garment worn to shield from the elements.
The hoodie as we know it hasn’t been around for nearly as long – but it’s not a new addition to fashion either. American sportswear label Champion claims they invented the garment (with drawstrings and a sewn on muff) in the 1930s. Then it was made to meet the needs of sportsmen and outdoor workers and was only worn on the field until the 1970s, when it finally crossed the line and became popular as everyday wear too.
The hoodie was adopted into American street and hip hop culture, as graffiti artists found the hood to be useful when concealing their identities while covering buildings and trains with spray paint. As a consequence of entire cities getting covered in graffiti in the 70s and 80s, the hoodie became strongly linked to delinquency. It was at this time that the garment got the bad reputation that it, to some degree, still holds. Because of its rep, wearing a hoodie in the 70s and 80s was a fairly bold fashion choice. With time, its bad rep only made it more desirable.
As hip hop culture became mainstream, the hoodie became a fashion mainstay, and it was a primary component in many big fashion houses' collections throughout the 1990s. Back then, the garment was still connected to street culture, sport or leisure. That changed as the luxury hoodie arrived on the runway two decades later.
With over-long sleeves, loose fits and loud graphics, the hoodie became fashion’s most-desired item in 2015. When Kanye West launched Yeezy Season 1 and the small French fashion collective Vetements became the most buzzed label in the world, the item we previously associated with sport teams and teenagers was now shown at haute couture week in Paris and seen on (almost) every global celebrity and Instagram influencer out there.
Now, as we’ve entered 2017, we believe we still haven’t reached peak hoodie (if we ever will?). To help you out, we’ve curated a list of the best hoodies to buy at H&M now. Scroll down to find your match.
The hoodie is modelled by Lara Mullen (Premier Management). Lok Lau (CLM) did her hair and Anya De Tobon (Link Details) worked her makeup magic.