H&M Studio AW25 Collection: Brutalism Meets Fashion | H&M

While brutalism is known mainly as an architectural style of the 1950s and 60s – characterised by simple, block-like forms and raw concrete construction – its influence on fashion runs deep. Raw aesthetics, functionality and minimalist design become the focus, with bold, geometric shapes and a muted colour palette. There’s an edge that rejects excessive ornamentation in favour of utilitarianism and authenticity.

For AW25, H&M Studio looked especially to brutalism in their use of materials and exposed structures. The design team embraced new possibilities and the rawness of materials – exposed linings, seams and closures on dresses, knits, leggings and outerwear. While raw edges, peplum details, draped backs and visible zippers emphasised the construction of jackets, dresses, blouses and trousers.

“When we focused on brutalism for AW25, we saw what futurism and function had in common with tradition and nostalgia. Familiar wardrobe pieces with vintage references in luxe, structured fabrics suddenly looked fresh. And modularity became more important – thinking about how women could wear things in a multitude of ways,” says Ann-Sofie Johansson, Creative Advisor and Head of Design Womenswear H&M

But the AW25 collection was also about finding connections in contrasting elements. From brutalism’s rawness to the nostalgia of craft. São Paolo’s melting pot of heritage and modernism to Stockholm’s crisp minimalism. And the softness or strictness found in feminine silhouettes.

“As a design team, we’re always looking for new, daring takes on everyday dressing. This season, a show of strength really appealed to us, through sharp silhouettes, raw materials and intentional construction. There’s also a complex simplicity to each piece that makes them special,” says Ann-Sofie Johansson.

Key pieces range from tailoring, like a masculine blazer with black front and dark grey contrasting material on the back with matching skirt, a sequin pencil skirt with mesh panels, and long, lean black wool trousers, to laidback, with a brown denim jacket and jean set, an apron and slip dress combo that can be worn separately, a maxi-length jumper dress, and a lightweight nylon jacket with a balloon shape. Accessories include dark brown leather heeled knee-high boots with removable buckles, a big, slouchy and soft burgundy leather bag, fog blue leather gloves and statement ear cuffs.

With brutalism, the use of raw materials and emphasis on functionality in H&M Studio AW25 is clear. But there’s another characteristic that cuts through, too: honesty.

“We’re embracing materials like wool, shearling, denim and nylon in their pure form. Exploring deconstruction and reconstruction. But above all, we’re celebrating the power of fearless self-expression,” says Ann-Sofie Johansson.

H&M Studio AW25 will be in selected stores and at hm.com on 25 September.